AWI’s ongoing advocacy to improve PEF

During the past four years, AWI has been working to address the shortcomings of PEF on two fronts. Firstly, in the European Commission’s PEF Technical Secretariat where AWI has been working with the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) to provide expert advice based on its science and research. Secondly, in advocating to EU policymakers as part of the Make the Label Count campaign.

“Wool was part of the PEF Technical Secretariat right from the start – we went with our sleeves rolled up to positively contribute,” John said.

“The wool team were the only member to bring experts in life cycle assessment (which is the science on which PEF is based), consumer textile research and textile testing research. We undertook targeted research and published peer-reviewed papers to provide a sound evidence-base supporting our proposals.

“However, Cascale (formerly known as SAC, which created the Higg Index) and many of its members – large global fast fashion brands – were also involved from the start and used their power to introduce methodology biased in favour of synthetics, which has been difficult to change. Hence there is a need to raise the concerns with policymakers via the Make the Label Count campaign.”

Through the Make the Label Count campaign, AWI has helped build a global coalition of like-minded natural fibre organisations, environmental NGOs, manufacturers and brands to engage with EU policymakers in the European Commission, Parliament and Council of the EU to advocate for wool and raise awareness of the shortcomings of PEF.

As part of the campaign, there has been widespread responses from thousands of farmers – as well as researchers, brands and industry – to public consultations regarding PEF. See www.fossilfuelfashioncampaign.com/farmers-letter-eu

Ecobalyse in France

AWI is also focussing on and addressing alternative rating schemes. For example, France at a national level has been developing its own ratings tool called Ecobalyse, which comes with similar challenges to PEF.

“However, France is more open to methodology improvement that will achieve its policy goals of targeting fast fashion without the inadvertent consequences for wool. AWI has provided robust advice based on science, which is currently being considered by the French for inclusion in their Ecobalyse rating tool. We will continue to work with the French government on improvements to the Ecobalyse tool to ensure it avoids unintended consequences to wool,” John said.

More information: www.makethelabelcount.org

Source: AWI